Getting Ready for Winter
The plants in our gardens are undergoing a lot of change, transferring energy to their root systems, preparing for winter and getting ready for spring growth. We can take a lesson from our plants, by getting our gardens ready for the onset of winter. By planning now, we can help plants get off to a good start next spring. The following suggestions may help you develop your own winter preparation.
Lawns
* Mow at a two-to-three-inch height. No scientific evidence justifies mowing your lawn shorter in late fall. Research shows that mowing to less than two inches can result in decreased drought tolerance and higher incidence of insects, diseases and weeds.
* During extended winter dry periods, it is good practice to water the lawn once per month, if the ground is thawed and will absorb water. Pay particular attention to exposed slopes, sites with shallow soil, and south- or west-facing exposures. Excessively dry areas may be prone to spider mite infestation.
*Winterize your lawn by applying fertilizer. Use a lawn fertilizer that has plenty of nitrogen, less phosphorous and potassium. Some examples would be 20-10-5, 11-5-5, or 21-7-11. Aerating helps improve the root zone by relieving soil compaction while controlling thatch accumulation. Aeration can also be done in April.
Trees
* Avoid the temptation to prune trees and shrubs in late fall. Deciduous trees and shrubs, as well as evergreens, do not have the ability or time to close wounds when they are dormant or semi-dormant. Heavy pruning should be accomplished in mid to late spring, when plants can rapidly heal pruning cuts.
* If you compost yard waste, consider saving some raked leaves to add to your compost pile in the spring. Whole leaves are better than leaves that have been shredded or mulched with a lawn mower, because finely chopped leaves may restrict air circulation needed for effective decomposition.
* Dispose of diseased leaves, especially if you had insect or fungal diseases over the winter and re-infect your plants in spring.
* If possible, water trees once per month, but only when air temperatures are above 40 degrees. Water at mid-day to allow adequate saturation before freezing at night.
Perennials
* Perennials that provide winter interest or seed for the birds should be left standing until early spring, which also protects the crowns from ‘winter kill’. Coneflower, butterfly bush, sage, hyssop and yarrow are examples of plants that can be left alone until spring.
* Ornamental grasses add texture, as well as food and cover for birds in the fall and winter. Plan to cut these plants back in early spring, before new growth emerges.
Mulch
* With roses, it is important to protect the crowns, where the main canes emerge, before the first hard freeze occurs. A mixture of soil and leaves or pine needles covering the first six to eight inches above ground will work well.
* After the soil has frozen, mulch other flowerbeds and specimen plants. Shredded wood products or leaf compost makes good mulch. Be sure to keep mulch six inches away from the trunks of trees and shrubs, to avoid creating a cozy winter nest for insects.